How old is paint
I picked a gallon up last week and was finally ready to give it try. I painted three walls earlier tonight. Two had a dark blue semi-gloss that had been sanded very well, new corners on one wall and the ceiling, and various spackled touch-ups and some screw-pops. The other wall had the Gripper primer as well as some spackle touch ups, and that wall although still very smooth, was sanded for adhesion.
And that may be true! The old primered wall looked much better. I was thinking instead of another expensive coat of STIX, I could just get some regular Benny primer, cause hopefully the STIX will do the job of bonding the the old surface and a regular primer will give me the hide factor as well as a smoother finish.
Curiosity got me and I opened the aged brand new can. Not much smell at all. About minutes of mixing and it looked good. I rolled about a one square foot section on freshly sanded blue wall. Not even three hours later, I tried blue tape and then tried some really sticky duct tape that I had been using to test other areas for adhesion, and ripped both off without issue.
And as luck would have it…I was using a light to check the new prime job, pulled the cord and knocked that can over and there was paint all over the bottom. What luck. Thank you, mike. I doubt you need fresh start after all that. I bet it will be fine…if you use a good quality paint. GOod luck, b. Thank you so much for looking at that small novel!
I even bought a new roll of the pink light adhesive tape…which honestly feels stronger than my old blue, and that pulls it off as well. Bonding in the field was pretty decent, but not in the corners. I read a comprehensive article last night about a university that had paint adhesion problems. It was very long but the major take-away was that thinning the JC left too little binders in the mix, causing the failure to occur at the compound.
I also bought a spray can of oil-based BIN and that seemed to work in a small area that I had reworked. So right now I am just thinking that the compound has some issues.
It has been a real nightmare project for sure. I have taped corners and ceilings in the past without even thinking of tape lift off, but for this room, it is impossible. Thank you again for reading. Yes, thinning any product, paint or mud can cause problems.
Stick with Bin…pun intended…if it works best for you. It was PPG paint. I hired a pro to apply to walls and ceiling. As he was painting, no smell except for wet pain. As it began to dry, the room smelled like sour milk or dill pickles. It was a new gallon of paint, just purchased the day before. Research suggests that pain may have had mold or bacteria in it.
It has been two weeks and room still smells like sour pickles. Is there any suggestion you can offer? Yikes what a bad situation. This is why I only recommend Ben Moore and S. Talk to a lawyer. Record any calls you make to PPG etc. They are misleading you about covering it up.
They should rectify this. Brad, We had two plastic buckets of old oil based exterior paint left over so I decided to refresh my exterior. The first can had been opened but my husband stirred it with a drill and it was perfect. I used it all so we opened the second can which was never opened. It was watery but my husband stirred it with the drill and it finally looked like the last can until I painted the wall.
Red pigments came through and gray. So my husband mixed it again but the same thing happened. We mixed one more time still the same. Is there a way to fix this problem? I only have one side of the house left to do.
Hoping you can help. This is why paint stores use a shaker. The drill is fine for new paints but old ones have pigment really settled out.
Just stir longer and harder. Split a gallon into two cans and shake like I show in the video at the bottom of the post. Shake long and hard and then check if pigment is mixed. If not, paint stores will shake for free. You might just need to re-do. I guess it may mean new paint. Hope this helps. Brad, Thanks so much for the tip. I will split the mix. The color looks perfect in the pan so I think more mixing and shaking will do the trick.
Thanks for your prompt reply! Paint color when wet is a shade or so different from dry. Hey Brad, Good stuff! I discovered your site today and gotten all the answers I needed about old paint and its properties. As I was reading thru the posts, I did wonder about the compatibility of painting latex on enamel or enamel on latex oil and acrylic.
Does time between application play a role? Because of a head trauma 20 years ago I lost my sense of smell and I happen to have a lot of old paint , so I will have to have someone do the smell test for me. Is old paint recyclable? Your insight is most appreciated. Oil of latex is fine: just a light sanding to knock off the ticks. Latex over oil is a recipe for disaster if not done right. Oil is not porous. It must be deglossed or sanded very well for latex to stick.
I always prime after de gloss with high bonding primer like Stix from Ben Moore. There are other good bonding primers. Wipe all the residue from the top groove of the paint can and around the edge of the lid, then put the lid back on. Place a block of wood on top of the lid, which will help you hammer the lid on more evenly, and then use a rubber mallet to tap it into place.
And keep it away from any sources of heat such as a hot water heater, furnace, or direct sunlight. Now, when the time comes for touch-ups or a whole new look, you'll be ready! Ree's Life. Food and Cooking. The Pioneer Woman Products. Type keyword s to search. MPKphoto Getty Images. Drill Bit Paint Mixer. Paint Can Pour Spout. So, oil-based paints, if preserved well, can last up to 15 years and possibly even more. The official estimate of chalk paint's longevity from manufacturer Annie Sloan is one year, though the company notes that it can "potentially last for several years.
Old chalk paint that has thickened can be revived by adding water. Mixed milk paint lasts only a day or two due to the inclusion of milk proteins. If refrigerated, milk paint may last up to a week.
Some milk paints have additives that preserve them longer. Milk paint with its base and pigments still in dry, powdered form will last indefinitely, as long as it is kept dry and cool. After the lid is opened, some paint might have a sharp smell: rancid, foul, or sour.
Other paint might smell like mold or mildew. If the smelly paint is applied, the smell may lessen but not disappear. Bacterial growth is the driver behind this smell. While you should try to prevent your mixed paint from freezing, one manufacturer, Glidden , states that frozen paint can be successfully thawed and used, as long as it is not clumpy and does not exhibit a foul odor. Paint experts, though, tend to agree that repeated freeze-thaw cycles will eventually break down paint.
It is natural for latex paint to develop a film on the top after some time. But if the paint has solidified past the point of a thin film, it is time to discard the paint. Solidified paint chunks cannot be dissolved by adding water. One indication that paint is past its prime is when it is entirely or partially jelly-like: neither solid nor liquid but an in-between goopy substance that refuses to mix smoothly.
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